Speaking of Fear

Climbers are a curious lot. They have a lot of peculiarities, lots of things that were new to me. One of these things were speaking about fear. In no other community have I observed such open discussion about personal fears, but for climbers it is an everyday topic. Fear of falling is a primal instinct and an inherent part of climbing. It is something you must overcome on order to thrive. Indeed, fear management is a central part of climbing technique. Where else would people, especially men, talk about their fears without being labeled as sissy?
On the other hand, most often when climbers talk about some specific route, they would say that it is scary. In other words, the climber is not saying that he is scared, but that the route is scary. Initially, that would seem like he is not admitting to being afraid, in order to so to say, save face. But this is not the complete truth. It is also a way of coping with fear. By moving focus away from "I am scared" to "the route is scary", the climber can make the fear an objective issue instead of a subjective issue. The fear is associated with the route and it is thus not a personal feature of the climber. An objective fear is much better than a subjective one, since it can be handled on the rational plane instead of emotional plane and the climber can thus retain much more control of the situation.
This brings us to climbing terminology; In their terminology, climbers have even separated dangers (i.e. fears) into objective and subjective dangers. An objective danger is the actual level of danger, for example, the level of risk of serious injury or death related to a fall at some spot. The subjective danger is the perception of fear, the emotional feeling of fear. Subjective fears are often not directly commented, but they are attached to a specific spot; besides to being scary, we could specify that a route is exposed (i.e. climber is exposed to large elevations), badly protected (i.e. it is difficult to attach equipment to the rock to protect falls), or run-out (i.e. distance between fixed points of protection is large whereby the length of potential falls is large).
Making fears objective is thus a technique of climbers. Generating vocabulary for different kinds of fears as well as associating fears with routes make them more concrete and controlling them is therefore easier.
Another fear management technique is more personal. This technique is known and employed also among performing artists. It is based on turning fear into an advantage. Fear brings a tremendous source of energy into a person. Usually that energy is a negative energy, but by choice, he can turn it into positive energy. Turning fear into energy can enhance the power to focus on the current task. It makes the climber and the performer stronger. A climber without fear is reckless and as such, not a very long-lived climber. A performer without fear of performance, is a performer who does not care much about the audience and thus cannot be much of a performer. Fear is thus an essential part of and necessary for both climbing and for performing.

What I find interesting is that everybody, climbers but especially non-climbers, associate climbing with danger. After all, climbing is in comparison to, for example, motorbiking, a relatively safe sport. According to insurance statistics (citing from my memory), out of 100.000 climbers, about 2 will die during an average year from climbing related accidents, while out of 100.000 motorcyclists, 8 will die. Still, according to my experience, people associate climbing much more with danger than motorcycling. My theory is that the fear of falling is such a primal instinct that we instinctively associate climbing with danger. The fears of high speeds or collision is not nearly as deeply rooted in our system, since high speeds is a new feature for humans on the evolutionary time scale.
It is also interesting how our capabilities in fear management is influenced by our overall mental state. Sometimes, when I have had some personal problems, such as, say, love worries, I've lost my confidence, which seriously deterred my climbing abilities. On the other hand, a seriously broken heart could make me reckless, completely demolish my fear of dying, since "nothing matters anymore". However, the best mental state for climbing is a peaceful state, where confidence is a based on awareness of ones' own abilities, where unnecessary risk is avoided, but irrational fears are "objectified" and used as a source of mental energy. This is probably the reason why so many climbers are attracted to things like yoga. If that gets them into a peaceful state, good for them, but personally I attempt to find mental stability through introspective observation, or in other words, by finding mental health.