sunnuntai, toukokuuta 31, 2009

Challenges

Every ones in a while, you've got to take a pause and look at the big picture and in that purpose, I decided to make an overall analysis of my climbing performance. Here are my observations of the current status:
- My most important challenge is the mental side. I do have good focus, but fears override the intelligence. This results in 1) over-gripping and excessive use of power, 2) slowing down and extra load on endurance.
- On the physical side I believe my shoulder/arm power is in relatively good shape. Core muscles are also ok. My weakness is finger power, partly due to over-gripping, but also poor endurance.

Short term to-do's:
- I need to relax. I need to learn how to relax. This should be my first priority in all climbing. Confidence. Deep breathing.
- I have to step up my fingerboard training to gain especially endurance but also a higher maximum force.
- Climb hard routes more through repetitions until they go instead of only on-sighting.

Longer term to-do's:
- Revisit the book "Mental Athlete" and search for improved technique for mental training.
- Keep up with supporting training; Pilates, hiking, jogging, biking, fingerboard, Bachar-ladder.
- Do bouldering a bit more often to increase variation and for strength.
- Try to find a climbing partner with similar level of commitment and goals.